Replacing 2016 BRZ Limited w/ new Starlink HU...


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  1. #1
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    Replacing 2016 BRZ Limited w/ new Starlink HU...

    Just picked up my BRZ from the dealer today and I already hate the factory headunit. My old car has a Pioneer AVH-x8500BHs and I can't live without it so it's time to migrate it over.

    Every guide I've found so far references a square headunit... my headunit is not square, it's a downward-pointing trapezoid:



    I assume I'm going to need some sort of special fascia adapter or replacement dash panel to accomidate a regular double-din headunit... what parts are available? Should I just buy a 2015 brz dashboard plate and put that in my car?

    Edit:
    It looks like my 2016 dash panel is the same clip design as the 2013-2015 models, so I should just be able to buy a new dash fascia from an old car and be good to go: http://imgur.com/a/sirUx
    Last edited by treminaor; 02-22-2016 at 07:01 PM.

  2. #2
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    Hmm... wish this section of the forum was a little more active.

    Anyways I've been working on this and here's my findings:
    There is currently no dashboard fascia for the 2016 starlink headunit cut in the dash trim. If you buy the existing Metra dash kit that everyone reccomends for 2013-2015 models, it will look like mine does right now:



    You don't need the dash kit to mount your radio to the car, so don't waste your money on it.

    Existing radio guides for the 2013-2015 BRZ will tell you to wire the blue power antenna wire on the Toyota Metra 70-1761 to your blue/white remote power (System Remote Blue/White on Pioneer decks) to turn on the door speaker amps. This is incorrect for 2016 models. You need to wire your blue/white remote power wire to the 9th pin (Brown wire) of the 28 pin data harness, which is the 3rd wire harness coming out of the car. This harness is for the backup camera, the integrated mic, the door amp power, and more. I've ordered a harness that might make the reverse camera compatible but it hasn't arrived yet.

    In the mean time to get my door speakers to work without splicing into any harnesses I jerry-rigged a pin/wire into the 28 pin connector using a pin I pulled off of a molex fan power cable for a computer:



    This is what the cable looked like that I ripped the pin from:



    And here's what it looks like wired to my Pioneer harness:



    Holy shit my Pioneer radio makes the stock speakers sound so much better than the Starlink one... I'll post another update once I get the reverse camera harness.

  3. #3
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    Another note, the AX-TOYUSB-1/2 will NOT work with a 2016 starlink Subaru. No idea what to use yet, might have to replace the OEM usb port with one of the aftermarket look-a-likes or splice the cable.

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  5. #4
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    Finally got the reverse camera working.

    First off you need a voltage regulator to step down the 12v power from the car harness to 6v, the required voltage for the OEM rear view camera. I suggest buying this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CGQRIFG
    Splice into your 12V accessory power wire to the red 12v INPUT wire of the regulator and wire the black ground wire to the black INPUT ground wire on the regulator. Wire the yellow 6v OUTPUT wire of the regulator to pin 11 of the 28 pin harness (this will power on the OEM camera). Wire the black OUTPUT ground wire to pin 22 of the harness (camera ground).

    I removed the prewired RCA plug with pins on it from the useless AX-TOYCAM2 harness I had laying around... if you don't have that harness just cut up any old RCA cable and separate the copper ground from the signal wire inside of it. The signal wire is your + (pin 12) and the ground is your - (pin 13) - plug them into their respective holes on the 28 pin harness. I then plugged the other end of the RCA cable into the rear camera input of my Pioneer AVH-x8500BHS. Remember to go into your settings and change the Camera from "Off" to "Battery" (not "Ground"), and set the camera to NTSC under "Video Signal Options"

  6. #5
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    Hello, how is it going with the SWAP. I also got a 2016 BRZ with that Stalink Head Unit it gives me more pain that anything from freezing my phone to rebooting itself.
    I was wondering have you found a solution to the face plate gap. Such as buying and FRS/BRZ or GT86 Face plate from an older model? How long did it took you to Swapp the head unit?
    Have you had any issue with the reverse cam? I'm thinking on changing mine but I first would like to know if I'm not bitting more than I can Chew. Thanks

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlmanRic View Post
    Hello, how is it going with the SWAP. I also got a 2016 BRZ with that Stalink Head Unit it gives me more pain that anything from freezing my phone to rebooting itself.
    I was wondering have you found a solution to the face plate gap. Such as buying and FRS/BRZ or GT86 Face plate from an older model? How long did it took you to Swapp the head unit?
    Have you had any issue with the reverse cam? I'm thinking on changing mine but I first would like to know if I'm not bitting more than I can Chew. Thanks
    You can buy any GT86/FRS/BRZ faceplate that is pre-2016 and it will have a square double din hole that fits the existing Metra FR-S radio adapter without leaving any gaps - all dash faceplates are completely interchangeable across all models and years so far.

    The reverse cam is a lot to bite off but the rest is cake, especially if you have experience swapping radios in other cars. Shouldn't take you more than 1-2 hours, just follow my wiring instructions.

    The camera requires buying extra parts, which I listed in the post right above yours. Good luck replacing the Starlink, it's complete garbage and you're making the right decision.

    I would like to add to this that I also wired up my own 10" subwoofter in the trunk of my BRZ and it has increased the overall sound quality of the OEM speakers by at least 10 fold. My headunit allows me to direct all low frequency/subwoofer output away from the front and rear speakers, which lets them focus on what they do best - mid to high range sounds. The subwoofer takes over the low end. I would say it's equal to if not greater than the level of improvement people see from buying the OEM Audio + system for a fraction of the cost and installation effort. Spent $170 on the subwoofer speaker + kenwood amp + speaker wire and $15 on materials for the box and built it to fit flush with the angle of the back seat in the BRZ trunk. 1cu. ft of volume in the box.



    Last edited by treminaor; 08-31-2016 at 12:11 AM.

  8. #7
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    Thanks for the answers. Niceset up, I don't know If I'll go all the way to using a sub-woffer. I do use the car to travel so lugagge space is appriciated. Does your unit has BT audio and Handsfree? Did you manage to use the OEM mic or did you put in the pioneer one? I was thinking on putting the pioneer one even when I think that small mic look weird.
    What did you ended up doing for the USB port? and the AUX imput?

    Sorry for so many questions, but I'm lookin gorward to manage to get this thing running.

  9. #8
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    Hello again, I manage to swap the stereo for a 4200NEX. BTW the cround output wire of the camera should be on pin 20 not 22. (22 is empty) Also I used a a cheap regulator for the 6 volts and it didn't work when I connected it with anoter cheap one on parallel connection the camara started working.
    So far so good and the sound realy improved with the new unit. I'll get later this week some other cables to get the aux ports and USB ports working. Will post any updates I have to let know anyone else reading out there how it goes.
    Thans aain for the initial help.

  10. #9
    Junior Member gazza82's Avatar
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    There is a new Pioneer unit coming for the facelift cars .. should fit in that no-rectangular hole too!

    UKs are due later this month as I have one on order .....

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