Break in period
I'm about to get my brz 6mt soon, and was wondering what is the
proper break in period? Is it written somewhere in the manual? Or has
technology took over, already broken in at the manufacturer.
Anyone one still in break in period? Or no such thing?
Congrats on your car! Break-in period (first 1,000 miles) for the BRZ is described on p. 149 of the owners manual.
You just asked the most controversial question to ever ask on a car forum. There is no right answer. None that someone here can show you by text. If you are asking you likely aren't sure how to break the car in, and in that case should just follow the manual.
I just used common sense for roughly the first 1,000 miles. No cruise control, no long runs at the same RPM, avoided redlining and tried to avoid hard braking. It's OK to slowly stretch out the legs by running up to 4, then 5, and then 6K on the tach, but don't stay there for long. Think of it like warming up for a bike or running event, you are just trying to get loose and you don't do that by starting with a flat out sprint.
Okay. Thanks for all the replies guys. I guess I'll just go by
The manual and enjoy it gently at first.
Originally Posted by subayota89
You might also wish to read the following and see if it appeals to you:
Is Cruise Control okay to use during break-in?
I should also write a thread on breaking-in the brakes. I'm not clear WHY every new car manual declares, "Don't brake hard!"
However, instead of waiting for me, or someone, to write about it, just go read the proper bedding-in procedure for new brakes from Brembo, Hawk, or any other reputable brake manufacturer. Pick whichever method appeals to you; they're all essentially the same. And they're the OPPOSITE of what every new car manual tells you to do…
The "trick" is to get the pads and discs really hot, and then let them COOL without the pads touching the discs again. That last part is not so easy; one needs to find a nice, long stretch of little-used country road to get the job done safely (without causing an accident) and correctly.
If you do need to stop after the final brake application, let the car roll to a stop without touching the brake pedal, and use the handbrake to hold it, and/or turn off the engine and put the car into 1st gear to hold it from rolling away.
Remember, do NOT apply the brakes!
Not until they have cooled down thoroughly, which may take 30 minutes. The reason is that the very hot pads and discs may cause pad material to transfer to and fuse onto the rotor. That's not good. Then you will have "warped" rotors. You don't want that.
The technical term is "glazing" the discs (rotors). Glazing is the transferring of the brake material to the rotor exactly as described. On the other hand, "Warping" occurs when the hot rotors are shock cooled by something like splashing through a puddle of water right after or during hard braking. Then the rotor can "warp" out of plane due to localized cooling along the brake circumference. Then you get that awful pulsing and shaking when you apply brakes.
New brake pads need to be "seasoned" exactly as described by BRZ Driver. This is some sage advice and I haven't seen it explained so well. It really makes sense and I'm going to ascribe to his method after a brake job. Most of my experience of being careful with new brakes has been with seasoning pads on small aircraft which is a different application but utilizes a similar break in.
With the method as described one could go enjoy a picinic lunch in the country as they wait for their brakes to cool.
Last edited by jliltd; 08-05-2012 at 05:50 AM.
I always cringe when I see people drive their cars (which have obviously been driven for a while and are hot) through a car wash and there is the initial "undercarriage" spray underneath and on the sides of the vehicle. You can literally see steam rising from where the water hits the hot undercarriage and brakes. I would imagine a lot of people unknowingly warp their brake rotors doing just that.
I want to use synthetic motor oil in my BRZ once I get it.
Should I use the stock oil during break in and then change to synthetic or should I go to synthetic oil right away?
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