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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I bought a ton of LEDs from Diode Dynamics and installed them tonight into my car. They all look great...except for the LEDs in my doors. Looking for electrical experts to dial in on the problem.

1) Doors had stock lights, and turned on when doors were open, and off when closed. (operating as normal)
2) LEDs put into doors: passenger side light was bright, driver's side was dim.
3) Switched LEDs on doors with each other: driver's side door light still was dim, passenger side was still bright. (I don't believe this was the case with stock bulbs they both seemed to light up to the same brightness)
4) Also, when closing the doors, the LED lights stayed on and never turned off. (This is discussed and considered standard due to lower current draw of LEDs, wish I knew this beforehand..) ***However, not only did they stay on, but they became brighter when the doors were closed!***
5) I was not happy with the lights and my cabin staying lit while away from my car, and went back to stock bulbs: ***Now neither stock bulb works in either socket, but the LEDs still work :( (maybe I they were ruined on removal? The filaments still look intact)

Recap: LEDs work now and stock bulbs do not; The driver's is too dim, and they both stay on forever regardless of door position

I would like to get stock bulbs working again.
-but-
I would love to have the LEDs light evenly, brightly, and shut off when the door is closed.

I will be contacting Diode Dynamics, but I imagine I will probably only receive a refund as I am not sure this issue is LED related entirely or not.

Help?

EDIT: Problem has been figured out, but as of now no solution. See my lastest post. DO NOT PUT LEDs IN YOUR DOORS!
 

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I had the same problem happen to me. I check the voltage on the plug in the door and have 7vdc and LED only lights a few very dim in the middle of the board and stock bulb won't light. I only changed the driver's side out, passenger is stock. I did get the level 3 smd board which is really a tight squeeze. All the other lights look great especially the
fog lights which finally match the color of the H.I.D.'s
 

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I await a reply from Diode Dynamics...

So I bought a ton of LEDs from Diode Dynamics and installed them tonight into my car. They all look great...except for the LEDs in my doors. Looking for electrical experts to dial in on the problem.

1) Doors had stock lights, and turned on when doors were open, and off when closed. (operating as normal)
2) LEDs put into doors: passenger side light was bright, driver's side was dim.
3) Switched LEDs on doors with each other: driver's side door light still was dim, passenger side was still bright. (I don't believe this was the case with stock bulbs they both seemed to light up to the same brightness)
4) Also, when closing the doors, the LED lights stayed on and never turned off. (This is discussed and considered standard due to lower current draw of LEDs, wish I knew this beforehand..) ***However, not only did they stay on, but they became brighter when the doors were closed!***
5) I was not happy with the lights and my cabin staying lit while away from my car, and went back to stock bulbs: ***Now neither stock bulb works in either socket, but the LEDs still work :( (maybe I they were ruined on removal? The filaments still look intact)

Recap: LEDs work now and stock bulbs do not; The driver's is too dim, and they both stay on forever regardless of door position

I would like to get stock bulbs working again.
-but-
I would love to have the LEDs light evenly, brightly, and shut off when the door is closed.

I will be contacting Diode Dynamics, but I imagine I will probably only receive a refund as I am not sure this issue is LED related entirely or not.

Help?
 

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I await a reply from Diode Dynamics...
I had the same problem happen to me. I check the voltage on the plug in the door and have 7vdc and LED only lights a few very dim in the middle of the board and stock bulb won't light. I only changed the driver's side out, passenger is stock. I did get the level 3 smd board which is really a tight squeeze. All the other lights look great especially the
fog lights which finally match the color of the H.I.D.'s
 

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I think I read on here someone had the same problem when they switched out their leds but It was a wiring issue. What stage did you get? I have replaced all of my interior with stage 2 leds from diode and have had no problems. Good luck

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have LEDs stage 1 and 2. Both behaved similarly, the stage 1s were so dim you could not tell they were even on unless it was dark out.

I contacted Diode Dynamics, don't let this thread scare anyone, their lights are good quality. I think this might be something in the car rather than the lights themselves. I need to go buy some cheap replacement bulbs and test them out too.
 

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I had the same problem after installing LED bulbs in my doors. I had a bad relay module that needed to be replaced. Not a stock part and car was in shop for 3 days. I have the interior and trunk light as LED but put the stock bulbs back in the doors after the part was replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had the same problem after installing LED bulbs in my doors. I had a bad relay module that needed to be replaced. Not a stock part and car was in shop for 3 days. I have the interior and trunk light as LED but put the stock bulbs back in the doors after the part was replaced.
Rube, did you ever try reinstalling the LEDs after the new relay was put in? Did the LEDs somehow cause the relay failure? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, so hopefully anyone who has LEDs or wants them will see this thread.

Just an update, Diode Dynamics never responded. And I am about to the call to dealer, here is why:

I dusted off the multimeter and tested the door lights. When my doors are open, there is about ~7.8V on meter. When I close the door switch (ECU thinks door is closed) voltage spikes up to 12.5V which is what the Map/Dome light always reads, and is expected. (just not when the doors are closed..)

Anybody know what is causing this? Basically it seems that the computer has switched up the process, the voltage on the door lights is higher when closed than when opened, and it must have been the other way around before. (My stock bulbs still do not light up no matter what)

1) Is this a relay or some other plug and play fix? Dome/Map light and door lights are all on the same fuse (#49) if this helps.
2) Can someone electrically inclined test this voltage drop on their BRZ door courtesy lights? Would really appreciate it.

When I figure this out I will be adding resistors to the doors (1k ohm 1/2W) and will posts instructions on how to do this right so no one else goes through this headache.
 

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I only kept the dome and trunk lights as LED. I'm not really a car guy, and wasn't really planning on doing any actual upgrades. The LED was just a cheap one that looked good, so I have it a shot. After having the module replaced I just opted not to mess with anything again.
 

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Diode Dynamics sucks (until such time as they can explain the OP's issue) They have had enough time to explain or least that say they will check into the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, so I've basically isolated the issue, here goes.

It is either a short cause by removing the bulb with a metal tool or a fault with the BIU.

Basically, if you have this problem (and many will, sticky this?) then you will need to take your car into the dealer for a BIU replacement. Some have said their dealer claimed it was some faulty module (could be referring to BIU or something else in the circuit) and replaced it.

Bottom line is it is going to the dealer Monday, and someone on another forum quoted a new BIU w/o labor to be 380$...I think there's a solid argument that this should be covered by warranty. Hopefully this is the case given the manual doesn't instruct the replacement process of door courtesy lights, nor does it list it as a dealer only replacement. Also, some people have installed door LEDs with no problems.

1) Diode Dynamics is NOT at fault here, despite the absence of customer service.
2) ***Use something NONCONDUCTIVE to remove these bulbs! (read: not a screwdriver)***
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well it is official. LEDs fried my BIU

LEDs require put a lower resistive load on the circuit, which means a higher current than intended reaches the BIU, (Computer that controls many electronic functions that are on switches/timers etc) and consequently fried it.

My dealer has been kind and said he'd give me a good faith warranty replacement on the dealer's dime since I purchased my BRZ there, but Subaru as a company does not acknowledge the issue. (this fault was caused by non-OEM parts which voids their coverage)

If you put LEDs in your courtesy door lights on a limited BRZ, you run an almost guaranteed chance to fry your BIU!

Dealer quoted $500 for BIU plus labor just FYI.

Q: So, you might ask "why have I seen others with working LEDs in their doors?"
A: I believe some are using a bulb with a ton of LEDs (read:6 or more) which is not allowing as much current to pass through. I cannot garuntee this nor will I ruin my new BIU to try this, so I will stick to the advice that nobody should put LEDs in their doors period.

DO NOT PUT LEDs IN YOUR DOOR LIGHTS!
 

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I kept the LED for my trunk and dome light and haven't had any issues. The LED I have for the doors have a lot of lights, but I haven't counted. I don't know a thing about cars of any meaningful value-other than the fact that the BRZ is the shit. That being said, after I had my BIU replaced, I just kept the door lights as they were when I took delivery. I really didn't need the extra light, it was more for show than anything. The dome light is plenty bright.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok, so that is not a solution either then. I guess I will merely leave my door bulbs stock, it's just really lame that I have LEDs everywhere but there. Something so simple causing such a failure is so lame.. Until someone finds a fix I guess my OCD will just have to get over it.

I thought having a complete LED set added 10whp.. :p
 

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I hope you got all figured out OP.

But other than vanity LED lights you don't have any problems with dome/trunk/license plate lights right?

I ordered all of the above and here's a hoping that nothing will go wrong..
 

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Just popped in to say, I had the same problem in the driver's side door - the BIU was replaced on my car, through warranty. Dealership said nothing about "eating" it. It was replaced and has been fine ever since. (8+ months now) Betting they had a bad batch at the factory for the BRZ.
 

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Ok, so hopefully anyone who has LEDs or wants them will see this thread.

Just an update, Diode Dynamics never responded. And I am about to the call to dealer, here is why:

I dusted off the multimeter and tested the door lights. When my doors are open, there is about ~7.8V on meter. When I close the door switch (ECU thinks door is closed) voltage spikes up to 12.5V which is what the Map/Dome light always reads, and is expected. (just not when the doors are closed..)

Anybody know what is causing this? Basically it seems that the computer has switched up the process, the voltage on the door lights is higher when closed than when opened, and it must have been the other way around before. (My stock bulbs still do not light up no matter what)

1) Is this a relay or some other plug and play fix? Dome/Map light and door lights are all on the same fuse (#49) if this helps.
2) Can someone electrically inclined test this voltage drop on their BRZ door courtesy lights? Would really appreciate it.

When I figure this out I will be adding resistors to the doors (1k ohm 1/2W) and will posts instructions on how to do this right so no one else goes through this headache.
You don't need to add resistors to the doors to get them to function correctly, also, we give examples on our site to avoid confusion about the levels of brightness.

Stage 1 is typically less bright than the OEM, it does give you the crisper white color.
Stage 2 is as bright, if not brighter than OEM
Stage 3 is considerably brighter than OEM

I am always here to help and I apologize that I didn't see this thread!

Don't lose faith in Diode Dynamics, we are always here to help!

You can even call us at (314) 205-3033 and speak with us directly.

Nick C.

BTW if you touched the stock incandescent bulbs with your bare hands, you may have caused the stock bulbs to stop functioning. The oil on your hands ruins those bulbs and decreases the lifespan greatly
 
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