Subaru BRZ Forum banner

21 - 28 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I can do plugs in two hrs. Its easy just loosen bolts to overripe, loosen motor mounts, that's four bolts total. Place floor mat under oil pan, make sure use smooth part of jack, raise motor two inches. You can wiggle left or right. No special tools aside from a 2inch wobble used a regular 14deep
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,029 Posts
I can do plugs in two hrs. Its easy just loosen bolts to overripe, loosen motor mounts, that's four bolts total. Place floor mat under oil pan, make sure use smooth part of jack, raise motor two inches. You can wiggle left or right. No special tools aside from a 2inch wobble used a regular 14deep
You are here too!!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
241 Posts
Havent changed them in a BRZ yet but they said the same thing about the plugs in a STI. With the right tools you could pull them out in a half hour. I dont see this one being any different plus there is more room in the engine bay on the BRZ!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
has anyone checked to see if you can access them through the wheel well?
I just looked today. The coil packs line up perfectly with the horizontal structural member in the engine bay.
You could not poke a hole in the fender well to access that area.

The fronts you might be able to do without lifting the engine, but the backs are so close to the engine bay, I dont even think you could get the coil packs off (didnt try).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
The plug change is a PITA, but it doesn't require you to move the engine at all. You cannot access coil packs or plugs from the fender well.

Drivers side: Remove engine brace. Remove 1x 10mm bolt in a fuel line hanger, remove it then the hoses will move and give you a little more clearance. You then remove the drivers side injector cover (2x 12mm bolts). You can then access both coil packs. The rear requires you to remove the clip on the connector. Pull the connector off, remove the 10mm bolt, and fenagle the coil pack out of there. You can leave the front coil pack connected to the harness because there is ample wire to remove the coil pack and move it out of the way.

Removing the spark plugs is annoying because they are located in a blind hole, you can't see what you're doing, and you have just enough room for 1 hand (maybe 2 if you're a contortionist). Drop a 14mm deep well socket into the hole, attach a 3" extension, then use ratchet to loosen it the spark plug. Remove ratchet, then use your hand to spin the extension until the plug is free of the threads. Then you need to free the extension from the socket, remove it, remove the socket using a magnetic pickup, then remove the spark plug as well using a magnetic pickup.

Removing the front is a lot easier as you have a little more room, but the process is exactly the same as the rear.

For installation of plugs and coil packs just use the removal procedure in reverse.

Don't forget to reinstall injector cover and fuel line hanger.

Passenger side: Things are a little different. First, remove the stabilizer brace. Next undo the clip holding the bundle of wires directly behind the injector computer (not the ones plugged into it). Undo the clip from the engine stand off so the wires in it can be moved. Now you can remove the 3x 10mm bolts in the injector computer and move it toward the firewall and out of your way (no kneed to disconnect wires). There is no need to remove the injector cover on this side (I didn't need to) as it won't give you any more room.

The coil pack removal is the same as driver side (the rear is harder because of the lack of clearance).

Plug removal is the same as the drivers side.

Installation of the plugs and the coil packs is the same as removal procedure, just in reverse.

Don't forget to reinstall the injector computer and put wires back in loom/attached to engine standoff.
 
21 - 28 of 28 Posts
Top