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43K views 72 replies 32 participants last post by  QuickDogHauler  
#1 · (Edited)
Just curious if anyone here takes interest in keeping their cars clean and detailed.

I personally detail my car once a year and maintain it with car washes weekly.

Here are some of the steps I take for maintenance of the paint.


Things I try NOT to do:

-Cloth (Non Touchless) Drive Through Car Washes
-Washing your car with a regular cloth or towel
-Drying your car with a regular cloth and towel
-Using a cloth on your paint that is used for rims or other parts of the car
-Touching or sitting on the paint
-No strong chemicals on the paint surface
-Don't let bird droppings sit on your car. Remove it ASAP. Keep a bottle of premixed car wash in your car and a microfiber cloth for on-the-spot removal.


Things you SHOULD do:

-Use quality microfiber cloths for everything car related. Have dedicated cloths for certain applications.
-Use the two bucket wash method for washing your car - having a grit guard is important too as it keeps the dirt away from your wash mitt.
-Use high quality wash mitts and car soaps. High quality microfiber or sheepskin wash mitts are the way to go.
-Wash your car often, try not to get it filthy. You are creating more work for yourself.
-Try to keep some sort of sealant or wax on the paint surface. This adds an extra layer of protection ontop of the clearcoat and makes maintenance easier as it repels dirt and contamination. Opti-Coat is a relatively new product that many BRZ and FR-S owners are raving about. It's almost like permanent wax. Here is some info on it on our forum.

My yearly DIY detail :cool:

My detailing steps:

  • Wash the car with a 2 bucket + grit guard method (One for wash - one for rinse). I use sheepskin wash mitts and quality car wash detergent/soap.
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  • Dry with microfiber drying towel
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  • Clean rims with dedicated rim cleaner
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  • Clean fender liners with all purpose cleaner
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  • Clean engine bay with light degreaser, rinse off lightly.
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  • Ultrafine Claybar w/ lubricant on all paint surfaces
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  • Polish with a cutting compound followed by a finishing compound using a random orbital buffer
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  • Finish by using sealant or wax, applied using applicator pad and buffed off using microfiber buffing towels.
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Misc.

  • I redress the wheels, engine bay, fender liner with dedicated tire dressing and plastic protectant
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  • Interior vacuum and wipedown with microfiber - redress with interior vinyl and rubber protectant
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  • Exhaust tip clean with 0000 steel wool
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  • Invisible glass the windows and follow up with an application of Rain-X (or any glass sealant)
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  • Throw in my favorite air freshener
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So what sort of products does everyone here prefer? Also curious if anyone else takes the time to do this or they just pay someone to do it. It takes a full day to do something like this for me.

I use products from Meguiars, Menzerna, Poorboys, Chemical Guys, Autoglym, Optimum, Collinite, and much more.

Also since this is a sticky now. If you guys and gals have any questions about detailing feel free to ask here. I'll check it often and try my best to reply and if others want to jump in and help that would be awesome.

If you are looking for someone in your area to detail your car, remove scratches and imperfections, wax your car, apply Opti-Coat, or just wash your car. Here is the place to ask. I'll try to find you someone and I'm sure others will too. Just say where you are from and what you are looking for.

Brian C
Alpha Auto Spa
 
#6 ·
No problem. I use to work at a detailing shop so I'm just posting what we use to do there.

The way I think of it. The more knowledge you have on how to take care of the care, the less ignorance exists. And in return you get to enjoy the car for longer without negative effects.

I always try to keep the paint on the car clean. It helps with second hand value. Plus noone likes to see a dirty and scratched up car.

The separator is called a GRIT GUARD. You can buy them at any detailing store online. If it's in your standard paint bucket you can get in the local hardware shop.
 
#10 ·
If you look around there should be private detailers that can detail your car for you at an affordable price. You only really have to do this once a year to protect the paint. It all depends how much you care about your paint.. Those who care will take care of the paint to a high degree. Those who don't will just drive it as it is and keep it clean when possible.
 
#12 ·
I'd love to learn how to do it myself but with only 2 days a week off from work (Sat and Sun) and nice weather coming I would rather pay the detailer and catch a ride with some friends to enjoy the spring and summer. Then pick up my car later.

I'm glad you said once a year. That's really affordable and I'll do the washes myself.
 
#22 ·
import_nation - those are some impressive before and after pics! I wanted to cry from the first few, were they using some 20 grit sandpaper to wax?? I've never used a buffer but thinking about making the investment for the BRZ. Do you recommend the 2-speed type or variable speed(speed increases gradually with trigger or dial)?
And I've heard that tire shines can be damaging to your paint, it mists off the wheel onto the car when driving, is this true?
 
#23 ·
That car was only a cut polish using Meguiars 105 and a yellow cutting foam pad. It's not hard to get your paint to complete shit by simply washing the car with those cloth or fabric drive through car washes.

Likely one of the safer options if you aren't experienced. Id start with a Porter Cable 7424XP. It's random orbital so it's much more forgiving to lack of experience. I haven't seen the tire shine Ive used misting off onto the paint. I don't use the aerosol type though.
 
#31 ·
Any product recommendations for cleaning/conditioning the leather on the seat bolsters?
Also, do you just recommend using a mild soap & water solution for cleaning the hard plastics and soft dash?

Thanks again for the post, I got the grit guard buckets after the first time I read your post and they've been awesome
 
#33 ·
import_nation, did you really use a yellow pad? In the pad kits I've used, the yellow pad is a cutting pad for serious defects. You usually wouldn't use a yellow pad on a vehicle with basically good paint. The orange pads are typically light cutting pads and are more appropriate for common defects like swirls, hairline scratches and stains. You only get one clearcoat, so go as minimally aggressive as you have to.
I just had this picture in my head of new BRZ owners using a new DA polisher with a yellow pad on their cars and wanted to try to make it clear that that should not be necessary and is not a good idea.


Sent from my Autoguide iPad app
 
#35 ·
On a brand new car I wouldn't use the yellow. I'd use the white pad. For moderate swirls I'd use orange. For moderate to swirled up cars on old paint I use yellow. For alot of cars that I've detailed I actually find myself reaching for the yellow because the swirls just take too long to remove with orange or white. Of course this is with a DA. With my rotary I usually use orange or white.
 
#36 ·
What is "DA"?

Also, for claying, how often should you clay? Every time you wash your car, or every couple of washes?

Should you wax after every wash?

Also, what is sealing?

I'm new to the auto detailing hobby, so I'm going to start with one of the dual bucket setups from Autogeek. I plan to get:

Hardware
- Dual Bucket Washing System
- 2 wool wash mitts
- 3 or 4 of the microfiber drying towels
- 1 wheel/rim cleaning brush

Software
- What is a recommended wash/detergent soap?
- What type of wax should I use? Spray on?
- What brand/type of Claying bar should I get?
- Should I get the same brand of Claying bar lubricant?

I'm trying to start with just washing, claying, and waxing, but not go too overboard. I don't mind spending some money up front if it will pay off in the long run (hardware). I'll save polishing for when I get more advanced at car care.

Cheers,
kp
 
#37 ·
DA is dual action. It's a type of polisher. Google dual action vs rotary. If you are just starting off I'd recommend the Porter Dual Action Polisher (7424xp). I only clay my car before I polish it. You don't need to wax everytime you are done washing. You only wax again when you've felt like the wax on your car has stopped working. Sealant is just a chemical solution that bonds and protects your paint. Google Sealant vs Wax. You likely don't need to polish a brand new BRZ. It's still clean.

- What is a recommended wash/detergent soap? My favorite brands are Optimum Car Wash and Duragloss Car Wash Concentrate
- What type of wax should I use? Spray on? The easiest wax to use is the Optimum Car Wax - its a spray type. It's a long lasting spray wax. Doesn't last as long as paste wax but it's 100x easier to apply. Just make sure the car is VERY clean before you apply wax. You don't want dirt on the surface that you will drag across when applying wax and scratch your paint! Apply with light pressure.
- What brand/type of Claying bar should I get? Get what you can afford. My favorite clay bar is Ricardo. Meguiars sells a claybar kit.
- Should I get the same brand of Claying bar lubricant? doesn't matter. you can even use quick detailer as lubricant